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The Tay, Source to Sea by Canoe

Three Guys, one Gal and a dog called Wobble

Saturday morning in October, phone rang at 9am (OK I was still in bed). "Would I like to cross Scotland by Canoe in 4 days starting on Tuesday"? Er em Yes!

Route revised to do the Tay confluence, source to sea. Apparently it takes 440 days for a drop of water that falls on Ben Lui to reach Dundee. 420 days are spent getting through Loch Tay.

We wanted to learn and test journeying skills such as lining, tracking, poling, sailing and general ropework. Accommodation would be in bivis with the sail doubling up as a sociable tarp using the canoes as walls.

At Dalrigh, near Tyndrum, the road turned to track. We put the the two canoes and a pack on the trolley for the walk to Ben Lui and the top of River Cononish. Result was one collapsed trolley! One of the party was an outdoor instructor and hobbies included testing gear to destruction! We opted to put in at this point and save the Ben Lui start for another trip. (We didn't see the top of the River Cononish but it is possibly not suitable for open canoes and may even be difficult to line)

On the water
We were off and paddling. The River Cononish becomes the River Fillan and runs parallel to the A82 to Crianlarich with some gentle bends to warm up the back paddling and setting techniques. We passed the castle on Loch Dochart and entered Loch Lubhair. With light fading in a drizzly evening we opted for the opportunity to make our first camp with the benefit of day light, a wise decision as the other two camps were set up at night!

The Accommodation
The combination of tarp, canoes and bivis worked well. The camp site was "open plan" with plenty of head room. There were none of the hassles of getting in and out of tents. It also saved on the weight of a tent. Might be different in midge season though.

On the water about 10.30am on Wednesday morning. The paddle towards Killin was meandering with plenty of time to admire the many surrounding Munros. Wobble the dog, would often be dropped off on the bank to have a run and get off the water. Wobble doesn't like water, particularly rapids!

We inspected the rapids about 2km above Killin before running them. Wobble was on the other bank and eventually decided she could be parted from her owners no longer. Just as the first boat was about to set off Wobble jumped into the grade 2 water downstream and swam (ferry glided) across to our bank!

The Dochart Falls
We arrived at Killin later than planned and had lunch at 4pm after a long inspection of the rapids with a view to lining the canoes through decided the right chute would take lined canoes!

We paddled and lined our way down the top part of the rapids becoming quite slick with the coaching from Ash - prepare bow and stern ropes, bridle, paddle down rapids, must make break out, jump onto rock, line down drop, back in boat, ferry glide across to tiny eddy jump out, line down, rest.

The crux was next. A tricky powerful chute with a diagonal wave and a large rock blocking bank access and movement downstream with the rocky bank slippy and slopping towards the river.

Within 5 minutes the first canoe had broached and was pinned hull downstream against a large flat midstream rock. Fortunately we had retained both the stern and bow ropes. The gear was secured in two large dry/portage sacs which meant that the gear was safe and also kept a lot water out of the boat. By now we had attracted a lot of interest on the bank with the Killin coach parties having a field day!

The Rescue
The rope attached to the far end of the canoe was tensioned against an upstream tree on the bank and we set about applying tension to the near end of the canoe to pull it of the rock. After the first attempt we set up a Z drag. A photographer arrived with a large camera bag and settled down on the rock slabs selecting his equipment carefully. Soon the coffee and hamburger van would arrive!

Very soon the canoe showed signs of movement. Encouraged we put on more strain. The canoe slipped off the rock. It was now back in the flow but still in danger because it was under tension from the other rope and side on to the current. One of us ran over to the rope attached to the tree. It was too tight to loosen quickly. Ash shouted "Cut it", this will look cool I thought - Pull the knife off the buoyancy aid and slash rope….or not, oops …non cutting edge…...turn the knife round and ping. The coach parties would really be able to dine out on this. The photographer had missed his chance, repacked and trudged off disconsolately.

The canoe was pulled ashore and the damage inspected. The gunwales were badly bent from where the canoe had broached upstream of the pin. The hull had a couple of ripples but was otherwise fine. A couple of kicks and the gunwale was back in reasonable shape. Next the gear, sleeping bags etc. The Sealline 115 litre boundary bags were bone dry. I was impressed. The trip was still on.

The Cause
The broach was caused by the gunwale dipping below the water on the diagonal wave taking in water which made directional control difficult. The canoe had briefly broadsided on rocks at each end with the main current hiting the unsupported middle and causing the broach.

We believed the pin which lasted about 45minutes caused little or no damage. The downstream line had not been caught by the downstream person because of line of sight problems anso there was no pull on the canoe which may have kept it on line better.

Learnings
In retrospect we didn't identify the crux and make special plans for it. We were too spaced out along the bank. A third side rope may have helped keep the gunwale above the water. This could have been attached either to the centre thwart or by putting a sliding karabiner on the rear rope. Finally we attempted a difficult task at 5pm after a late lunch, a low spot in the body's day, when concentration was perhaps low.

Plan B
Ask a kind person with a box trailer if we could borrow it for a portage through Killin (Having broken our own trolley). No problem, we were towed through Killin. So this is what a sponsored End to End walk with Canoes would feel like!

We launched onto the River Lochy and made our way onto Loch Tay in the dark. It was a lovely still night for a paddle. We decided to head over to the south shore and began looking for a camp spot and at 8.30pm found one in a clearing east of Firbush point. 2 on food and 2 on accommodation and 1 on sniffing. Very soon we had a cosy camp eating lovely pizzas.

The Sail
We wanted a south westerly the next day to sail down Loch Tay. It duly arrived and the tarp was rigged up. This was no ordinary tarp. Mark 4, it was very light with strong material, 3m x 3m, with fixings for sailing and camp use. By Mark 5 or 6 it is hoped a model will be commercially available. The canoes were rafted up using a 9m length of wood, the sail hoisted and we did about 7km/hour down the loch even being able to brew up an expresso for our elevenses.

A quick demasting stop at Kenmore before heading down the lovely bumpy stretch to Grandtully. Some rapids were difficult enough without Wobble moving along the gunwhales from the bow to the middle of the canoe in mid rapid!

Fast Progress
Our objective was still to reach Dundee but we were behind schedule. The tide start to ebb at Perth at 8.30am the next morning. Progress was now up to 11km/hour with the river flowing fast and energy restored after the efficient sail down the Loch. We slickly ran Grandtully with bank support and only a stand up inspection to save time then lined the weir below the bridge.

A quick snack. It was 5pm and we decided to push on and get to Dunkeld or possibly Campsie Linn before stopping. Progress continued at pace. By 7pm we were at Dunkeld and we decided to call it a day pitching camp in the dark and rain on the left hand bank soon after.A slick pitch and we were soon snug under the tarp.

Decision time
To go for Dundee or opt for Perth. We worked back from the tide starting to ebb at
Perth and decided a 3am wake up call to be on the water by 4am was needed to to give the best chance of beating the flood at Dundee. We choose to try for Dundee. We couldn't communicate this to poor Wobble who spent most of the night rootling for rabbits and only came to bed at 2am expecting 5 hours sleep. We stirred at 3am, up at 3.30pm and on the water by 4.15am not bad.

Poor Wobble was in shock and kept falling asleep. We were confident that there were no rapids of consequence before Campsie nevertheless water makes a noise out of all proportion in the dark. At 6am we rafted up for breakfast and caught the sunrise as we passed the Isla confluence.

Campsie was lined. Ominously we had felt the start of a head wind and after running the Stanley to Thistlebrigg section we knew the game was pretty much up. Energy was low after yesterday's 59km paddle and a cold easterly had arrived which would make the leg to Dundee a tricky slog in wind against tide conditions. At 9am we reached Perth and took out just above the first bridge.

The Café and Gallery near the bridge proved wonderfully welcoming to 4 tired, bedraggled canoeists.

The Route
This route goes through great scenery and could be extended to take in the many munros en route. It provides excellent open canoe journeying opportunities and some long stretches of fun rapids. The Tay confluence is the longest in Britain.

The one disappointment was the amount of litter left by "users of the outdoors". The first camp site, on Loch Lubhair, although off the beaten track had numerous beer bottles part buried in the long grass. The spot on Loch Tay had a lot of litter, many fireplaces and even two carrier bags of litter carefully collected then hung from a tree.

Some Stats and Gear
The trip started at 2pm on Day 1 and finished at 9am on Day 4. Two Mad River Canoes were ideal for the trip with each person taking no more gear than could fit in the large 115 litre dry sack. 2 poles were used for sailing, poling and camp erection.
OS Maps 50 to 53

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