The
Tay, Source to Sea by Canoe
Three
Guys, one Gal and a dog called Wobble
Saturday
morning in October, phone rang at 9am (OK I was still in bed). "Would
I like to cross Scotland by Canoe in 4 days starting on Tuesday"?
Er em Yes!
Route revised
to do the Tay confluence, source to sea. Apparently it takes 440
days for a drop of water that falls on Ben Lui to reach Dundee.
420 days are spent getting through Loch Tay.
We wanted
to learn and test journeying skills such as lining, tracking, poling,
sailing and general ropework. Accommodation would be in bivis with
the sail doubling up as a sociable tarp using the canoes as walls.
At Dalrigh,
near Tyndrum, the road turned to track. We put the the two canoes
and a pack on the trolley for the walk to Ben Lui and the top of
River Cononish. Result was one collapsed trolley! One of the party
was an outdoor instructor and hobbies included testing gear to destruction!
We opted to put in at this point and save the Ben Lui start for
another trip. (We didn't see the top of the River Cononish but it
is possibly not suitable for open canoes and may even be difficult
to line)
On the water
We were
off and paddling. The River Cononish becomes the River Fillan and
runs parallel to the A82 to Crianlarich with some gentle bends to
warm up the back paddling and setting techniques. We passed the
castle on Loch Dochart and entered Loch Lubhair. With light fading
in a drizzly evening we opted for the opportunity to make our first
camp with the benefit of day light, a wise decision as the other
two camps were set up at night!
The
Accommodation
The
combination of tarp, canoes and bivis worked well. The camp site
was "open plan" with plenty of head room. There were none of the
hassles of getting in and out of tents. It also saved on the weight
of a tent. Might be different in midge season though.
On
the water about 10.30am on Wednesday morning. The paddle towards
Killin was meandering with plenty of time to admire the many surrounding
Munros. Wobble the dog, would often be dropped off on the bank to
have a run and get off the water. Wobble doesn't like water, particularly
rapids!
We
inspected the rapids about 2km above Killin before running them.
Wobble was on the other bank and eventually decided she could be
parted from her owners no longer. Just as the first boat was about
to set off Wobble jumped into the grade 2 water downstream and swam
(ferry glided) across to our bank!
The Dochart
Falls
We arrived
at Killin later than planned and had lunch at 4pm after a long inspection
of the rapids with a view to lining the canoes through decided the
right chute would take lined canoes!
We paddled
and lined our way down the top part of the rapids becoming quite
slick with the coaching from Ash - prepare bow and stern ropes,
bridle, paddle down rapids, must make break out, jump onto rock,
line down drop, back in boat, ferry glide across to tiny eddy jump
out, line down, rest.
The crux was
next. A tricky powerful chute with a diagonal wave and a large rock
blocking bank access and movement downstream with the rocky bank
slippy and slopping towards the river.
Within 5 minutes
the first canoe had broached and was pinned hull downstream against
a large flat midstream rock. Fortunately we had retained both the
stern and bow ropes. The gear was secured in two large dry/portage
sacs which meant that the gear was safe and also kept a lot water
out of the boat. By
now we had attracted a lot of interest on the bank with the Killin
coach parties having a field day!
The Rescue
The rope attached to the far end of the canoe was tensioned against
an upstream tree on the bank and we set about applying tension to
the near end of the canoe to pull it of the rock. After the first
attempt we set up a Z drag. A photographer arrived with a large
camera bag and settled down on the rock slabs selecting his equipment
carefully. Soon the coffee and hamburger van would arrive!
Very soon the
canoe showed signs of movement. Encouraged we put on more strain.
The canoe slipped off the rock. It was now back in the flow but
still in danger because it was under tension from the other rope
and side on to the current. One of us ran over to the rope attached
to the tree. It was too tight to loosen quickly. Ash shouted "Cut
it", this will look cool I thought - Pull the knife off the buoyancy
aid and slash rope….or not, oops …non cutting edge…...turn the knife
round and ping. The coach parties would really be able to dine
out on this. The photographer had missed his chance, repacked and
trudged off disconsolately.
The canoe was
pulled ashore and the damage inspected. The gunwales were badly
bent from where the canoe had broached upstream of the pin. The
hull had a couple of ripples but was otherwise fine. A couple of
kicks and the gunwale was back in reasonable shape. Next the gear,
sleeping bags etc. The Sealline 115 litre boundary bags were bone
dry. I was impressed. The trip was still on.
The Cause
The broach was caused by the gunwale dipping below the water on
the diagonal wave taking in water which made directional control
difficult. The canoe had briefly broadsided on rocks at each end
with the main current hiting the unsupported middle and causing
the broach.
We believed
the pin which lasted about 45minutes caused little or no damage.
The downstream line had not been caught by the downstream person
because of line of sight problems anso there was no pull on the
canoe which may have kept it on line better.
Learnings
In retrospect
we didn't identify the crux and make special plans for it. We were
too spaced out along the bank. A third side rope may have helped
keep the gunwale above the water. This could have been attached
either to the centre thwart or by putting a sliding karabiner on
the rear rope. Finally we attempted a difficult task at 5pm after
a late lunch, a low spot in the body's day, when concentration was
perhaps low.
Plan B
Ask
a kind person with a box trailer if we could borrow it for a portage
through Killin (Having broken our own trolley). No problem, we were
towed through Killin. So this is what a sponsored End to End walk
with Canoes would feel like!
We launched
onto the River Lochy and made our way onto Loch Tay in the dark.
It was a lovely still night for a paddle. We decided to head over
to the south shore and began looking for a camp spot and at 8.30pm
found one in a clearing east of Firbush point. 2 on food and 2 on
accommodation and 1 on sniffing. Very soon we had a cosy camp eating
lovely pizzas.
The Sail
We
wanted a south westerly the next day to sail down Loch Tay. It duly
arrived and the tarp was rigged up. This was no ordinary tarp. Mark
4, it was very light with strong material, 3m x 3m, with fixings
for sailing and camp use. By Mark 5 or 6 it is hoped a model will
be commercially available. The canoes were rafted up using a 9m
length of wood, the sail hoisted and we did about 7km/hour down
the loch even being able to brew up an expresso for our elevenses.
A quick demasting
stop at Kenmore before heading down the lovely bumpy stretch to
Grandtully. Some rapids were difficult enough without Wobble moving
along the gunwhales from the bow to the middle of the canoe in mid
rapid!
Fast Progress
Our
objective was still to reach Dundee but we were behind schedule.
The tide start to ebb at Perth at 8.30am the next morning. Progress
was now up to 11km/hour with the river flowing fast and energy restored
after the efficient sail down the Loch. We slickly ran Grandtully
with bank support and only a stand up inspection to save time then
lined the weir below the bridge.
A quick snack.
It was 5pm and we decided to push on and get to Dunkeld or possibly
Campsie Linn before stopping. Progress continued at pace. By 7pm
we were at Dunkeld and we decided to call it a day pitching camp
in the dark and rain on the left hand bank soon after.A
slick pitch and we were soon snug under the tarp.
Decision
time
To go for Dundee or opt for Perth. We worked back from the tide
starting to ebb at Perth
and decided a 3am wake up call to be on the water by 4am was needed
to to give the best chance of beating the flood at Dundee. We choose
to try for Dundee. We couldn't communicate this to poor Wobble who
spent most of the night rootling for rabbits and only came to bed
at 2am expecting 5 hours sleep. We stirred at 3am, up at 3.30pm
and on the water by 4.15am not bad.
Poor Wobble
was in shock and kept falling asleep. We were confident that there
were no rapids of consequence before Campsie nevertheless water
makes a noise out of all proportion in the dark. At 6am we rafted
up for breakfast and caught the sunrise as we passed the Isla confluence.
Campsie was
lined. Ominously we had felt the start of a head wind and after
running the Stanley to Thistlebrigg section we knew the game was
pretty much up. Energy was low after yesterday's 59km paddle and
a cold easterly had arrived which would make
the leg to Dundee a tricky slog in wind against tide conditions.
At 9am we reached Perth and took out just above the first bridge.
The Café and
Gallery near the bridge proved wonderfully welcoming to 4 tired,
bedraggled canoeists.
The Route
This
route goes through great scenery and could be extended to take in
the many munros en route. It provides excellent open canoe journeying
opportunities and some long stretches of fun rapids. The Tay confluence
is the longest in Britain.
The one disappointment
was the amount of litter left by "users of the outdoors". The first
camp site, on Loch Lubhair, although off the beaten track had numerous
beer bottles part buried in the long grass. The spot on Loch Tay
had a lot of litter, many fireplaces and even two carrier bags of
litter carefully collected then hung from a tree.
Some Stats
and Gear
The trip started at 2pm on Day 1 and finished at 9am on Day 4. Two
Mad River Canoes were ideal for the trip with each person taking
no more gear than could fit in the large 115 litre dry sack. 2 poles
were used for sailing, poling and camp erection.
OS Maps 50 to 53

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