Moidart May 2002
Leaving
the jetty at the top end of Loch Ailort, the flotilla followed the
tide down the loch in sunshine and good spirits. After a break on
the shore at Roshven, the coast was followed for several kilometres
and landfall made to the South. This was to be our campsite for
the next two nights. The 'judges' gave the place very high marks
for Artistic Impression and Technical Merit was only spoiled by
the water supply being a dribble from the crags behind rather than
a sparkling burn. At the day's end, a pair of otters hunted the
channel in the gloaming as the sun set behind Eigg.
Heading
south the following day across the mouth of Loch Moidart's orth
Channel, we saw and heard a Great Northern Diver making the 'loon'
sounds that gives the bird it's name in North America. After a quick
look into the bay at Ardtoe, some of the party felt a strong urge
to explore Kentra Bay, while others were drawn to the sandy beaches
below Torr Beithe. The group re-assembled for lunch and a spot of
sunbathing out of the freshening wind. We retraced our route as
far as the entrance to the South Channel and then turned eastwards.
Breeze and tide carried us to the ruins of the 14C Castle Tioram.
We pulled out and explored what parts of the ramparts were accessible
to us. Sadly, entrance to the castle is now barred. Its fate awaits
the outcome of an appeal to the recent public enquiry: a choice
between private dwelling house and 'ruins in a landscape'.
Leaving the
castle, we continued around Eilean Shona and Shona Beag and returned
to our campsite via the North Channel. Two hours after high (neap)
tide there was still plenty of water in the channel north of Shona
Beag
On the water
by 0930 the following morning, we reversed the route of two days
previously in increasingly warm sunshine. The halfway point fell
conveniently for a stop on Eilean nan Gobhar (Goat I.). After an
early lunch, we climbed to its highest point to examine the remains
of an ancient vitrified fort. Drifts of primroses, violets and bluebells
testified to the absence of the island's namesake and showed what
Highland flora can look like if ruminant teeth are absent.
The return to
our start point marked the end of a weekend in which weather, company
and location had conspired to produce a memorable trip.
Tony Laidler,
Tour organiser
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